There are a substantial 909 cases of the 2017 Ermitage de l'Orée. Sourced from Les Murets' clay soils, it combines hints of struck flint with honey, pear and baking spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with a layered sense of richness and ample concentration, it's a big but balanced wine. While it lacks the zest and freshness of the 2016, it should still drink well for close to two decades.

Full bottle 1,384 g. 100% Marsanne from Les Murets in the east of the Hermitage hill on very old glacial alluvium, rich in red clay. Hand-picked in several stages. Light settling. Whole-cluster pressing, moderate use of sulphur. Fermentation mainly in demi-muids, casks (85%, including 10% new) and stainless steel vats (15%). Aged on lees for 11 months, with some bâtonnage. Pale apricot colour. Rich, satin-textured with a hint of ginger and lots of exotic floral notes (lilies?) Amazingly refreshing with a light note of bitterness at the end. Long and a peacock's tail finish. Really seductive. This may well last longer than I suggest. (JR)