Classy hints of pencil shavings accent the pear, nectarine and melon fruit in the full-bodied, voluptuous 2018 Ermitage de l'Orée. Despite the wine's ample richness and weight, it's surprisingly fresh and zesty, with hints of citrus zest and brine lingering on the finish.

Full bottle 1,392 g. Certified organic and biodynamic. 100% 60 to 70 year-old Marsanne grown on very old fluvioglacial alluvial deposits. Cold settled after pressing. Half is vinified in 600-litre wooden casks with regular lees stirring for six months and the rest in vats. Total ageing is between 10 and 12 months. If ever you seek a white wine to drink at room temperature with boudin noir, this is it. Bullseye! Stunning arrray of waxy flavours including honey, (good) furniture polish, green leaves with a powerful, pungent undertow. Fairly low acidity but that doesn't matter when you have so many other distractions. Extremely long and already a massive pleasure. I can;t see the point of chilling this - although I have to admit that th edergs of Ermitage Le Méal 2018 from the fridge taste pretty good too... Very long indeed and hugely distinctive. A vindictaion of old vines and biodynamics? As well as of the hill of Hermitage of course. (JR)

100% Marsanne. Tank sample. Riper fruit than their Méal, fleshing out the palate and giving a more balanced, satisfying impression of flavour. Well-integrated dairy character and a decent dash of freshness that probably comes more from a saline/herbal flavour than acidity itself. Statuesque. (RH)