Another inky colored wine that has a touch of blue at the rim, the 2014 Ermitage Le Méal offers a liqueur of blackberry-like perfume to go with lots of wood smoke (it sees a scant 25% new oak), licorice, smoked herbs and black raspberries. Big, rich, full-bodied and layered with plenty of building tannin, it will be a candidate for 2-4 years of cellaring and drink well over the following two decades.

Wow, that is an extraordinary nose! Opulent, rich fruit – pineapple, mango, preserved citrus, toasted oak, butter, toasted nuts – what a wine! Absolutely singing. (RH)

Full bottle 1,387 g. Certified-biodynamic Marsanne. Cold-settled must. Half was fermented in new demi-muids and half in 'vats'. Aged in casks with lees-stirring for 10 to 12 months. Deep honey-gold. Lightly reduced, struck-matchy and really lively - much more so than many Marsannes. Elements of honeysuckle and lots of maturity, just an edge of beeswax. Still remarkably fresh with a dry, saline finish. Lime freshness. I would guess this is in its rather glorious second stage of evolution. (JR)