The 2016 Ermitage le Meal shows distinctly more crushed stone character than Les Greffieux, but it still maintains a strong fruit component. Cassis, blackberries and raspberries all mingle on the palate of this full-bodied, tannic and richly concentrated wine, lingering on the layered, velvety finish. It should be approachable by 2025 and drink well for 15 years after that.

Full bottle 1,384 g. 50+ year-old Marsanne cold-settled 24 to 48 hours. 50% vinified in new wooden barrels and the rest in 'vats'. Aged in cask with some lees stirring for 10 to 12 months. Deep honey colour. Very rich and round and honeyed. Extremely opulent and hedonistic. Gloriously in-your-face with a backbone of smouldering fire. You're aware of the alcohol... Not a wine for neophytes but at a great moment for current drinking. Long and pungent. But not a crisp refresher by any means! (JR)