One of three potentially perfect Hermitage wines from Chapoutier this vintage, the 2017 Ermitage le Meal is absolutely seamless, delivering a whirl of lush fruit, ample structure and tremendous freshness and length on the finish. Crushed stone and pencil shavings frame the technicolor blueberry and cassis fruit, which picks up an added licorice note. Just a wow wine from start to finish.

Full bottle 1,381 g. 100% Marsanne from Le Méal climat on a steep south-facing slope. Rounded pebbles and loess on a deep clay base. Hand-picked in several passes. Light settling. Whole-grape pressing, moderate use of SO 2 . Fermentation 85% in demi-muids, casks (10% new) and 15% in tank. Aged on lees for 11 months with some stirring. Deep gold. Lots of alcohol and, for the moment, less refreshing than the de L'Orée 2017 bottling. Almost sweet! But so gorgeous. This may need more time to develop savoury, saline notes but actually, it did in an opened bottle! Totally won the heart of Mrs Hugh Johnson (and me) when served with salmon and was still unctuous yet not flabby many days later. Yes! (JR)