1997 M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, Vin de Paille

Nectar lovers will be amazed by the richness of this wine. The fully mature grapes spend two months on straw mats before being pressed. It exhibits a light gold color, with a texture resembling molasses. Despite being aged in 100% new oak, no wood is discernible. Its astonishing white truffle-scented nose includes notions of coffee, marmalade, and creme brulee. Extraordinarily dense and thick, with surprisingly good underlying acidity, this is a remarkable wine. Sadly, only 100 cases exist. It will last for 100 years, but it will be impossible to resist in its youth. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

Deeper golden-bronze color. Wilder aromas of game and white truffle. Even sweeter and more concentrated yet still fresh; powerful game and barley sugar flavors. Chewy with extract. A wine of extraordinary persistence, perhaps the longest I tasted on my recent tour of the Rhone Valley. The following '98s were tasted from barrique: