Inky ruby. Intensely aromatic cherry and dark berry aromas are complemented by hints of licorice, peppery spices and cola. Deeply concentrated but taut dark fruit flavors show a suave blend of power and vivacity, and a mineral nuance adds lift. Gains heft and sweetness on the clinging finish, which features a smoky mineral quality and fine-grained tannins that come on slowly.

The 2013 Hermitage la Sizeranne has lots to love, with plenty of jammy blackberry and black raspberry fruits, crushed flowers and background meatiness, medium to full-bodied richness, excellent purity and a fleshy, forward style. I suspect it's best consumed in its first 10-12 years of life.

Mid-deep garnet. Grilled meat, oxidative tones to blackberry fruit, with crushed-rock minerality and truffle development. Touch of cooked tomato – feels like a cool-vintage nose. Fine, but firm tannins are still fully in command of the palate. Brisk acidity and drying raspberry fruit. Meaty and flinty, with a very savoury, long finish. Still not ready. (TJ)