I’ve always loved the 1995 Hermitage, which has a masculine, mineral-drenched style that shows the class and structure of this terroir brilliantly while still carrying plenty of fruit and texture. Lots of cassis and dark fruits, crushed granite, wild herbs, and leather notes all define the bouquet, and it’s medium to full-bodied, perfectly balanced, and has a finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. This is a fabulous, majestic Hermitage to enjoy over the coming decade or so.

The 1995 Hermitage, on the other hand, is totally sublime. Rose petal, black pepper, dried flowers and sage are some of the many Syrah-inflected aromas that blossom in the glass in a perfumed, sensual wine that captivates all of the senses. With just six people at the table, there is plenty of wine to go around. This is a dazzling showing.

Ruby-red, a bit less saturated than the '96. More sauvage aromas of black fruits, game, gunflint, licorice, smoke, spice, roast coffee, mint and pepper; subtle and very complex. Wonderful sweetness and purity in the mouth, but a wine of terrific cut and grip. Finishes with substantial chewy tannins that will require extended bottle aging. But not at all dry on the back end. Perhaps more classic Hermitage than the cooler '96.

Christie's dinner before the King's College, Cambridge sale . Pale orange. Rich and sweet with notably low acidity and almond notes. I wouldn't keep this much longer. (JR)