A brilliant Hermitage from J-L Chave. A deep garnet core with ruby rim. The nose is very intense with blackberry, wild hedgerow, smoke, flint and a touch of Provencal herbs. Wonderful definition and it builds and builds in intensity in the glass, evolving more black liquorices scents. The palate is full-bodied, symmetrical, very good weight and density – this is a long-term behemoth. Pure and vibrant. Notes of black plum, iodine, tar and blueberry, an Hermitage that swells with pride – just as it should. An ebullient Chave. Drink 2015-2030+ Tasted March 2009.

The dense saturated purple-colored 1999 Hermitage had been bottled only 24 hours before my visit. It is a brilliant effort. The wine exhibits fabulous texture, purity, and sweetness as well as a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. There is high tannin, remarkably rich, concentrated extract, and tell-tale Hermitage fruit characteristics (blackberries, cassis), minerals, and spice. This is the greatest vintage Chave has produced since 1990. While it requires 7-10 years of cellaring, it will last for 4-5 decades.

Good full ruby. Jammy black fruits and pepper on ths nose; distinctly wilder than the 2000. Fat, thick and powerful, with huge fruit and impressive volume. Offers an uncanny combination of flesh and thrust. Very silky in texture but with excellent acidity and lift. The big tannins spread out to coat the entire palate. This complete Hermitage actually closed down in my glass. I'd expect it to need a good decade before approaching maturity.

The 1999 Hermitage is huge, with a deep, enveloping core of dark red and black fruit, smoke, tobacco and cured meats. Wild overtones run through the finish. Today the 1999 does not appear to be an especially refined Hermitage, but at the same time, I would be tempted to cellar bottles for a few years, as the density of the fruit is almost overpowering, especially next to some of the more polished wines that follow.

Now starting to hit a second phase, this has perfumy, singed balsam wood, dried currant and blood orange fruit and orange rooibos tea notes all gliding on a fine-grained finish where sanguine and white pepper notes flicker through. Still has an ample core of plum and red currant fruit, with a nice tug of earth for grip.--Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). JM

More in the style of the ’01, the 1999 Hermitage is a serious effort that gives up a mineral-drenched profile of red and blackcurrants, beef blood, iron and dried flowers. More forward on the nose than the palate, with a tight, yet seamless texture that carries ample concentration and length, with bright acidity, it should continue to shine for another decade.