Along with the single vineyard offerings from Michel Chapoutier, Chave's 2000 Hermitage is a candidate for this appellation's "wine of the vintage." A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by sumptuous aromas of licorice, blackberries, currants, spice box, and earth. Deep, full-bodied, and rich, with moderately high tannin, it is atypical for the vintage given its structure and density (two characteristics most 2000 northern Rhones lack). It is a brilliant achievement in a challenging year. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2035.

More forward, open and textured, the 2000 Hermitage is an almost promiscuous effort that’s just hard to resist. According to Jean-Louis, this wine has never shut down and has always delivered plenty of pleasure. It has classic cassis and blackberry fruit, bacon fat, violets and herbs to go with a full-bodied, layered and seamless, if not voluptuous, style on the palate. I’d line bottles up for drinking over the coming couple of years, but it should hold nicely for upward of a decade. Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

Saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of blackberry, blueberry, clove, minerals and black licorice. Very ripe but precise and penetrating. At once lush and powerful; seamless but with terrific thrust. Black fruit, flint, spice and dark chocolate flavors offer considerable density and verve. Finishes with substantial noble tannins that arrive very late. Has all the elements for longevity. Give this 10 to 12 years before pulling the cork. This comes across as a bit denser than the young 2001 but not finer. The Chaves clearly did a superb job of harvesting in 2000.

Even more honeyed than the 2011 and here it’s spiced like heather honey. But there’s apricot and bitter orange too, maybe even barley sugar but without the sweetness. Long and savoury with that spiced-honey flavour going on ad infinitum. (JH)

Mint, blood, blackberry. A library book scent too. Has the reverence, the ethos and the greatness of the best maturing wines – and the balance is just now coming into harmony. Dense potent, heavy, wonderful. (RH)