Just an incredible Hermitage in every sense, the 2017 Hermitage reminds me of the 2016 yet on steroids (or maybe a more finesse-driven example of the 2015?). Revealing a deep, saturated purple color as well as a stunning nose of red and black currants, kirsch, Asian spices, cured meats, ground pepper, and Acacia flowers, it shows more classic Chave minerality with time in the glass, and if this doesn't put a smile on your face, I don't know what will. These all carry to a full-bodied, powerful, yet seamless wine that has the sunny, extroverted style of the vintage yet still packs incredible mid-palate depth, ripe, polished tannins, no hard edges, and one hell of an incredible finish. It's going to be relatively accessible by this cuvée’s standards and offer considerable pleasure in its youth, yet also have 30-40 years of longevity.

Saturated ruby. Displays expansive aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry liqueur, licorice, candied flowers and olive, plus spice and mineral nuances that build as the wine opens up. At once weighty and energetic in character, offering densely packed black/blue fruit preserve flavors and hints of violet candy, star anise, black tea and smoky minerals. Finishes juicy, lively and strikingly long, with repeating spice and floral notes and steadily building tannins.

Jean-Louis Chave had done some preblending of the 2017 Hermitage at the time of my visit, meaning several parcels had already been combined with others, so there were fewer components to taste. A sample that included some L'Ermite, Les Beaumes and Péléat was fragrant, loaded with peppery spice and came across as slightly open-knit (93 - 95). A second component, mostly Le Méal, was richer and riper-tasting, with lush fruit and hints of roasted meat (97 - 99). Finally, a sample Jean-Louis described as "more the core of the blend" (mainly Les Bessards) was simultaneously firm and generous, with notes of crushed stone, cassis and licorice (98 - 100).

At first, notes of black fig, chocolate, leather and cured tobacco come to mind. Yet there's also a primordial character: undergrowth, charred meat, blood and iron. This is rich and powerful but balanced all the same, with wonderful intensity and depth. The sort of wine that's best drunk on the coldest of winter nights, sitting by a fire, reading Dracula or Frankenstein . (JRL)

Bottled in August 2018. Fleshy, creamy, salty. There's a yeasty, bready note too. Apricot and peach skin. Pithy, textural and balanced – no excess. (RH)

From 4.6 ha on a 45-degree, 'damn hot slope with no Atlantic influence'. 80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne. Yields are low thanks to short pruning. 24-hour debourbage, 80% oak, 20% stainless steel. Goes through malo. Quite a shock, tasting this straight after 2017 Nahe Rieslings. It's so rich and powerful! (Look at that alcohol...) Clotted cream and peaches. Rich and swirling. Plump but not fat, broad and curved and voluptuous but not without grace. Feels very warm and quite loose knit, verging on flabby, but not quite, thanks mostly to the pronounced pithy bitterness on the finish. Massive drama and statement. (TC)