2022 Domaine Jean Louis Chave, Hermitage, Rouge

A tasting of the different lieux-dits showed how the different soil types reacted to the drought. Granite-based parcels (Ermite, Les Bessards) suffered blockages in ripening and finished at 13% alcohol; the clay-based terroirs (Le Méal, Les Beaumes) didn't stop ripening and finished at 15%. The overall blend will be powerful but fragrant, complex and stylistically sits within other recent dry and hot vintages, and isn't outside the current norm (it's nothing like the similarly extreme 2003). Picking started at the end of August.

Focused red and black fruits, leather, graphite, and spice emerge from the 2022 Hermitage, and it's about as classic an expression of the vintage as you're likely to find with its ripe yet almost strict, focused, balanced character. Medium to full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, it displays a Pinot-like elegance and seamlessness, with fine yet building, firm tannins and incredible length. It's going to age beautifully, but I suspect the cellar will be your friend here. This iconic estate continues to set the standard for both red and white Hermitage, and few tasting experiences compare to time spent with Jean-Louis Chave in the family's cellars in Mauves. Founded in 1481 and passed down through generations, the domaine farms 14.5 hectares on the Hermitage hill, including parcels in Bessards, L'Ermite, Le Méal, Beaume, and Péléat. All the Hermitage parcels are vinified separately using a mix of stainless steel tanks and oak uprights, with élevage in barrel (20-30% new), and the final blend is assembled before bottling. The Hermitage Blanc comes from Rocoules, Les Murets, and l'Ermite, and is based largely on Marsanne from 60- to 100-year-old vines. It sees full malolactic fermentation and is aged on lees in barrel. In addition to the flagship Hermitage, Chave occasionally releases a special Cuvée Cathelin, sourced primarily from Bessards and aged slightly longer in oak. It's only produced in top vintages and in tiny quantities, and good luck finding any! The domaine also produces a rare Hermitage Vin de Paille, made from Marsanne dried on straw mats and aged several years before release. I've only seen this bottling at the estate, but it's a heavenly dessert wine if there ever was one. In Saint Joseph, Chave has now spent over a decade reviving historic hillside vineyards. The estate Saint Joseph comes from granitic sites near Mauves and Tournon, while the Clos Florentin is a single parcel on sandier, south-facing soils. Both are destemmed and aged in oak but show different profiles - the former more classic and mineral-driven, the latter rounder and more elegant. A new cellar was completed in 2014, but the style here remains deeply rooted in tradition. These are benchmark Northern Rhône wines, built for aging and made with clarity, purpose, and precision. It would probably be impossible to have too much Chave in a cellar.

I tasted various separately vinified lieux-dits that will eventually curate the 2022 L'Hermitage. Both the L'Ermite and Les Bessards, the cuvée’s backbone, show terrific structure, finesse and complexity. I am totally taken by the sheer beauty of the Les Beaumes with its striking inner energy and the mesmerizing floral lift of the Péléat. Cropped at an overall 30 hL/ha, the ripeness of the vintage is skillfully balanced by lifting freshness throughout all components. I can’t wait to taste the final result.

The 2022 Hermitage from Jean-Louis Chave is broad and deep, bursting with aromas of smoke, licorice and dark wild berries mingled with delicate notes of fresh thyme and spices. Full-bodied, dense and powerful, layered and concentrated, it has a fleshy palate with a broad attack, racy mid-palate, velvety tannins and a mordant, somewhat firm finish. Remarkably, despite the sunny, dry conditions of the vintage, the wine does not exhibit an overtly warm character. This Hermitage stands out at this address as a particularly unique expression, rewarding those who are patient.

Cask samples tasted at the domaine. Sample 1 : Péléat. Very floral aromas, earthy underneath. A real sense of salinity and freshness on the palate. Sample 2 : Beaume. Really powerful with a spiced note – mocha – rich and opulent. Sample 3 : Le Méal. Sweet spice, sandalwood, perfumed violet notes. Firm but supple and textured tannins. Sample 4 : L'Hermite. Wow – such expression. Cassis and crushed blackberry. Violet with berries on the palate, crunchy and a real sense of freshness. Sample 5 : Bessards. Dried flowers, violets. Real grip on the palate with an underlying steely freshness. A slight Islay whisky smoked peaty note underneath. (AC)