Aging as slowly as the 2001, the 1999 Clape Cornas is a brooding, deeply concentrated wine that displays an array of dark fruit, floral scents and a distinctly weighty palate presence. Bitter cherry, black currant, espresso and licorice flavors are slow to unfold, and there’s still a slight firmness to the tannins. That structure doesn’t give me pause; this wine has fruit to spare and I’d be confident holding onto it for at least another 10 years.

(the May bottling, sent to England) Saturated medium ruby. Profound aromas of crystallized dark berries, gunflint, violet, spice and smoked meat. Rich, sweet, sappy and fresh; a large-scaled wine with good freshness. Finishes with big, chewy tannins and a late note of bitter chocolate.

Such a smoky nose – lapsang souchong and dark red fruits with a note of rose petal and violets beneath. Juicy and supple mouthfeel with fine-grained tannins that pepper the palate – real verve and purpose here and a beautiful blend of savoury, smoke and fresh floral hints. Long and fine and in a good place at the moment. (AC)