Moving to the reds and one of the most impressive efforts from Cornas I was able to taste, Clape’s 2012 Cornas offers up an inky purple color to go with massive aromas and flavors of charred earth, graphite, cassis, black raspberry and searing minerality. Turning meatier with air, this full-bodied 2012 has a blockbuster texture, thrilling mid-palate depth and a decadent finish, yet never loses focus or seems over the top in any way. It will need 3-4 years to become approachable, and evolve gracefully for two decades or more. Another reference point in Cornas, the Domaine of Auguste Clape, which is now run by Auguste’s talented son, Pierre-Marie (who started working at the domaine in 1989), is staunchly traditional in style, and the wines see no new oak, no destemming and aging all in ancient foudre. He produces two cuvees from Cornas, his Renaissance, which comes from the estate’s younger vines (50 years in age), and the top wine, which is labeled simply Cornas. Both are textbook examples of the appellation, with the Renaissance being more approachable early on. In addition, he releases a Saint Peray (Marsanne), and a Vin de France and Cotes du Rhone, both of which comes from vines near Cornas and are well worth seeking out. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Opaque ruby. Heady aromas of fresh dark berries, cherry compote, potpourri and incense, along with a minerally topnote. Sweet and velvety in texture, offering deep, palate-staining dark berry and violet pastille flavors enlivened by juicy acidity. Supple tannins build slowly on the long, penetrating finish, which leaves notes of blue fruit and candied flowers behind.

Deep, berry-driven nose. Very compact and intense. Very Cornas; very Clape. Dark chocolate on the palate, coffee and smoke, rounded tannins but there is far more flavour complexity still locked up – this one needs patience. (RH)