The 2004 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out to be one of the finest wines of the vintage, tipping the scales at just over 15% alcohol and actually coming a few tenths of a degree within the 2003 and 2005 in terms of power and alcoholic degrees. The wine displays gorgeously sweet black raspberries, kirsch liqueur, and resiny, loamy soil notes. Medium to full-bodied, this blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, and the rest some of the other red varietals that are permitted, is performing beautifully and is certainly one of the vintage’s superstars. The wine is full-bodied, powerful, rich, and as accessible as the 2003, but slightly fresher and not as muscular and thick. Nevertheless, this is a top effort from the father and son team of Paul and Vincent Avril. This wine can be drunk now but can be cellared for 15-20 years.

The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape has drunk well for most of its life and has tons of charm. Sweet cherries, kirsch, olive, spice, cured meats and licorice all emerge from this mature, elegant and layered Chateauneuf du Pape that's ideal for drinking over the coming 7-8 years.

Deep ruby. Pungent spice and floral notes accent bright red berry and cherry aromas. Deep, fleshy and sweet, with musky underbrush and garrigue adding complexity to the bright, intense red berry flavors. Very rich, in fact one of the more powerful wines of the vintage, with excellent depth and sweetness. The finish is chewy and strikingly long. Avril compares this one to 1995 in quality.

Leather and liquorice – goût de terroir in full effect. Very savoury, and … oh dear. Corked. Very slightly. Second bottle is much purer in fruit, with bitter chocolate, dark olive. Superfine tannins, just enough acid to cleanse. Lively, still reverberant – yet not the most complex or satisfying of Clos des Papes, which might just make it too young – it does appear to be remarkably dark in colour. (RH)