The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape evokes a savory aromatic profile that’s defined by earthy scents, tobacco, cured meat, dried blackberry, crushed rocks and leather. Fleshy and forward, the 2005 shows much more evolution than the 2007 does on this encounter. Fine-grained and perfectly integrated tannins structure this outstanding Clos des Papes, comfortably placing it among the wines of the vintage.

Avril presented the components, from foudres, and opined that he now prefers this to showing an approximate blend because "blending on the spot isn't an assemblage, it's just a melange, and a wine needs two months after blending to harmonize." Sample #1, 70% grenache and 30% mourvedre: Blackberry, dark cherry, plum and licorice on the nose. Sweeter on the palate, with bright raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. This is "about 15.8% alcohol," says Avril. Sample #2, 70% grenache and 30% syrah: Intensely perfumed nose combines powerful kirsch, cassis and Asian spices. Silky and sweet, with a deep cherry flavor and suave tannins. Sample #3, a blend of 80% grenache, 10% mourvedre and 10% syrah: A strong floral quality lifts the ripe raspberry and licorice aromas. Lush, broad and silky, with impressive concentration. Sample #4, all grenache: Bright raspberry and strawberry on the nose. Impressively silky and sweet, with strong minerality, fine tannins and excellent persistence. The final blend should be a great Clos des Papes.

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape has a deep ruby/purple color, identical alcohol to the 2006, and the same pH, but it is a much more tannic wine and the acids seem slightly more elevated, even though the analysis says they are not. A complex nose of resiny pine forest notes intermixed with black raspberry, sweet kirsch, licorice and lavender jumps from the glass of this deep ruby/purple-colored wine. Full-bodied, powerful, rich, and tannic, this wine begs for 4-5 years of bottle age and should keep for 25+ years.

At 15 years of age, stylistically this is between two stools for now, revealing developed mushroom and leaf mulch aromas. Lovely roundness and very well balanced on the palate, it's showing a touch of hardness currently, but it's most elegant underneath. I have scored the wine as it shows in the glass today, but it's likely to improve, so wait until at least 2022.

Hitting a natural 15.5% alcohol, Paul-Vincent’s 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape is decidedly more elegant and finesse-styled now than it was on release, where it was more dominated by its tannic structure. Still a youthful ruby color, it offers up a perfumed bouquet of kirsch and blackberry-like fruits, licorice, incense, Asian spice and forest floor. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless, elegant wine that’s lost all of its baby fat, yet still has a core of sweet fruit, fine tannin and a balanced, harmonious feel. It’s not a powerhouse, and is drinking nicely today, with another decade of longevity.

Mid crimson. Closed, vaguely mossy nose. Lots of substance and gaminess but not yet ready. Introvert and still chewy. All potential rather than reality. (JR)

Mushroom, vanilla, light red fruit with a smoky undertone. 'Powerful but elegant', says Vincent Avril. Strong definition with firm but yielding tannins with a soft, fluffy finish. (RH)