Due to devastating yields, there’s not much of the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape to go around, but it’s going to be worth the extra effort to track down. Based on 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre, and the rest Syrah (and a splash of other permitted varieties), it offers a textbook, classic Châteauneuf du Pape nose of mulled red and black fruits, Provençal garrigue, ground pepper, and saddle leather. These all carry to a medium to full-bodied Clos des Papes that has thrillingly polished tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Made in a style similar to the 1999, 2004, and maybe a kiss of the 2006, it has the beautiful elegance (again, a Grand Cru Burgundy comes to mind) paired with plenty of intensity and length. I doubt it will shut down and it’s going to evolve nicely for 15-20 years or more.

The 35% Mourvèdre is quite present on the nose, which shows deep black cherry kirsch aromas, sweet strawberry and a potpourri, floral lift. This is a soft, succulent, juicy style, with bright and concentrated strawberry fruit, and although the alcohol is a little raised, there's a lovely freshness to the wine. More Mourvèdre than usual due to the rampant mildew that the southern Rhône suffered in 2018, which attacked the Grenache more severely than the Syrah and Mourvèdre.

Bursting with striking red-fruit aromas and delicate cinnamon, clove and star anise notes, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape is another terrific vintage from this estate. While certainly full-bodied and powerful, it's also lithe and silky, with an almost airy feel on the palate that translates into great elegance on the lengthy finish.

Bright violet. Expressive, smoke-accented cherry, Chambord, licorice, succulent herb and exotic spice qualities on the nose. Weighty and broad on the palate, offering intense red fruit, floral pastille, allspice, cola and botanical herb flavors that turn sweeter as the wine opens up. The floral note gains strength with air and drives the impressively long, penetrating finish, which features polished tannins and resonating cherry and floral notes.

Tank sample. Such purity and clarity of fruit, with a tar and medicinal complexity plus a lightly spiced finish. It shows the typical Clos des Papes delicacy and tone: reverberant but not shrill. There's lots of bass, in fact. Perhaps not the longest- lived, from the soft structure? (RH)