Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 27/12/2012 The uber-impressive 2010 Hermitage Les Bessards ranks alongside the perfect 2009. The strikingly intense powdered stone/granite minerality is apparent in this wine of great intensity, prodigious, almost skyscraper-like texture, massive body and high tannins. It is only for true connoisseurs who have a cold cellar as well as the patience to wait a minimum of a decade for it to round into drinking form. Filled with potential, it is one of the single greatest Hermitages I have ever tasted. There is no hint of its 100% new oak aging! Over the last 10-15 years, Delas Freres, which had muddled along with no great distinction for many years, has hit full stride under the ownership of the Louis Roederer-Deutz Champagne firm and the management of Jacques Grange, who continues to push the envelope of quality for both the Northern and Southern Rhone selections. The top single vineyard wines are world class in every sense, often flirting with perfection. Moreover, readers should realize this is also an impressive source for value. Delas’s top St.-Joseph cuvee comes from the hillside vineyards overlooking the small commune of St.-Jean de Muzols. The Delas firm owns 25 acres in Hermitage from which they make a basic cuvee, called Domaine des Tourettes, and, in the greatest vintages, a luxury cuvee, Les Bessards, which comes entirely from the great lieu-dit of the same name. Delas has long had a reputation for making outstanding Condrieu, of which he makes two cuvees. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Lastly, I always look for older wines in local restaurants during work trips, and I was able to purchase this bottle from Le Mangevins, which is unquestionably one of the top restaurants in the Northern Rhône. Pure Hermitage magic, the 2010 Hermitage Les Bessards comes from the western side of Hermitage Hill and pure, gnarly, steep, broken granite soils. It takes time to open up but reveals a vivid ruby hue as well as a gorgeous perfume of red and black fruits, crushed stone, spring flowers, incense, camphor, and burning embers. Full-bodied, dense, concentrated, and powerful, it has thrilling tannins, perfect balance, and a finish that won't quit. A sensational, heavenly, seamless Hermitage, it can be drunk any time over the coming 30 years or more.