The 2011 Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis has closed down slightly since last year, yet still offers a terrific perfume of cured meats, vanilla bean, sweet black currants and graphite to go with medium to full-bodied, ripe, sexy style on the palate. I doubt it will truly close down and would happily enjoy bottles anytime over the coming 15 or more years.

Lucid aroma of black cherry with a light, rocky note and bright liquorice. Warm, spicy mid-palate, silky smooth tannins and refreshing acidity.

The final wine is a blend of seven parcels, each with separate élevage. Three cask samples were tasted. La Garde (Côte Blonde): Above La Mouline. Dense and rich. Very attractive and sappy. Pure Côte Rôtie. Lovely pure stuff if in a slightly minor key. (Scored 17 Drink 2018-30 ) La Pommière (Côte Brune): Occasionally auctioned as cask or magnums for charity as ‘Hommage a Etienne Guigal’. Next to Turque but quite Blonde-like. There is some Viognier. Almost pruney – not the freshest cask. (Scored 16 Drink 2018-32) La Viria (Côte Brune): A massive style from a 1.5-ha parcel that touches La Landonne – lots of manganese. In fact this seems rather perfumed! Good framework on the plate but rather heady and alluring on top of the muscle. The tannins build! (Scored 17+ Drink 2018-35) (JR)