Slightly more forward and flamboyant than the more classically structured 2016, the 2017 Condrieu la Doriane is full-bodied, plush and opulent, loaded with flowers, melons and apricots. Yes, the oak is noticeable, but it adds a relatively restrained note of toasted almonds, serving to focus and lift the waves of succulent fruit. I'd drink this silky-textured beauty over the next few years, while it's still as showy as can be.

Limpid yellow. White peach, melon, smoky minerals and exotic flowers on the intensely perfumed nose, which picks up a hint of vanilla as the wine stretches out. Juicy and deeply concentrated, offering palate-staining orchard and pit fruit nectar, orange zest and honeysuckle flavors that are lifted and sharpened by a smoky mineral quality. Seamless and subtly sweet on the impressively persistent finish, which repeats the pit fruit and floral notes.

Aged in 100% new oak. Sweetly smoky nose and palate, where the oak has taken the fruit hostage. You'd still guess the variety, if nothing else due to the low acidity and flabby texture. (RH)