2018 E. Guigal, Condrieu, La Doriane

Light, green-tinged yellow. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe orchard and pit fruit liqueur, honey, vanilla, exotic flowers and smoky minerals, along with emerging spiciness. Broad and fleshy but shockingly lively as well, offering palate-coating orchard and pit fruit flavors that take on energizing spiciness through the mid-palate. The honey and mineral note reverberate on an extremely long, smooth finish that leaves a refreshingly bitter orange zest note behind.

The 2018 Condrieu la Doriane was barrel fermented in 100% new oak. Yes, it's toasty as a result, but it's loaded with grilled stone fruit and doesn't seem overdone, just rich, plush, full-bodied and long on the powerful finish. It's another top-notch effort from the appellation's leading (volume) producer.

100% Viognier b lended from several vineyards, including Coteau de Chéry , Vernon and others. Complementary oak spice on the nose and rich, thick apricot and pineapple fruit. Substantial and viscous but without undue flesh – a high-wire balancing act. Very smart. (RH)