In a completely different style, the more blockbuster, masculine style 2017 Côte Rôtie La Landonne sports a dense purple hue as well as quintessential Landonne notes of smoked meats, black fruits, scorched earth, and chocolate. Pure, focused, and remarkably delineated on the nose, it’s full-bodied and incredibly concentrated on the palate, with building tannins, perfectly integrated oak, and a monster of a finish. It’s going to require at least a decade to be drinkable, but it’s one of those seemingly immortal Côte Rôties that will continue drinking brilliantly for longer than most of us will be around.

The 2017 Cote Rotie La Landonne is 100% whole cluster, yet the stemminess—at the moment—is represented on the nose as just the merest hint of fresh pea shoots. As always, La Landonne is a bastion of strength and power, with dark flavors that range from black cherries and plums to smoke, roasted meat and on into mocha and espresso. Full-bodied and densely concentrated, with a long, long finish, it's the most impressive of Guigal's single-vineyard Cote Roties this vintage. JC

Inky violet color. Highly perfumed, mineral-tinged aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, smoky bacon, olive paste and incense, along with suggestions of woodsmoke and exotic spices. Offers palate-staining, appealingly sweet and deeply concentrated blueberry, cassis, floral pastille, smoked meat, licorice and fruitcake flavors that show excellent concentration and are supported by a core of juicy acidity. Finishes sweet, broad and extremely long, with resonating florality and chewy tannins that build steadily. JR