Made in the style of the 2010, the massive 2005 Hermitage Ex Voto offers searing minerality and crushed-rock nuances as well as tons of black raspberries, licorice, toasted spice and charcoal. Full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, with a wall of sweet tannin, this behemoth nevertheless stays nicely focused, pure and classic on the finish. Give it another 4-5 years and enjoy bottles over the following 30-40+ years.

Very spicy style, still a little closed on the nose. Graphite and blackberry, a little struck-flint smokiness, tight and mineral on the nose. An interesting blend of the expansive and lush on the palate, along with a tight, vibrant focussed saline element. Long and precise, but needs more time. Great energy and minerality.

Made in a completely different style, the colossal 2005 Hermitage Ex-Voto is pure power, muscle, and concentration. Its inky/purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary, precise nose of creme de cassis, smoke, charcoal, incense, and spring flowers. Full-bodied with outrageous concentration, good acidity, noble sweet tannin, and a 60-second finish, this wine requires 5-6 more years of bottle age, and should drink well for 30-50 years.

This massively broad, rich white stood up beautifully to the rich cheesy Savoie speciality tartiflette. Honey and rich. Full and broad. Throat warming. Rich yet dry. Hint of malt whisky sweet oak. Very long. Tastes as though it's going to be sweet – but it isn't, despite the Marsanne/marzipan notes. Stood up very well in the glass over two hours. (JR)