Last of the 2018s, the 2018 Hermitage Ex Voto shows a riper, more sunny profile and has a killer nose of ripe blackberries, cassis, spice, game, woodsmoke, and bacon fat. The tannins from Hermitage always have a different feel from the Côte Rôtie releases, and this is full-bodied, with a refined, seamless mouthfeel, beautiful structure, and a great finish. The balance, as well as the purity, are just about off the charts. This is another magical 2018 from this team that flirts with perfection. Hide bottles for 7-8 years and enjoy over the following 30 years or more.

Still in barrel, the 2018 Ermitage Ex Voto continues to impress. Brown sugar notes accent cherries and raspberries on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is lush and expansive, delivering waves of pleasure on the mid-palate before ending long and silky.

Full-bodied and rounded, with firm acidity and salinity. The oak has taken over at this early stage and will always be quite dominant, however the fruit is deep and should harmonise with the wood in time. Very long and ending with butterscotch and quince, the élevage will always be a strong feature of the wine, but the depth is there for long ageing. For release in 2022. 100% new oak barriques.

Not yet decided if this will be bottled separately (if not, it will be blended into their regular Hermitage). 100% new oak for 24 months. Cask sample. Wonderfully toasty nose with a long, smoky bacon character dominating the nose and a granitic, mineral aftertaste. There's fruit at last, underneath everything – dried apricot and peach. Formidable intensity and oak scent. (RH)