Autumnal colour and flavours, in its tertiary window but still with beautifully fragrant dark fruits, melted tannins, saffron, tobacco leaf, olive pit and cumin. Charming and effortless, layered and nuanced. Today owned by Caroline Frey, at this point by the Jaboulet family. Tasted the same week as a wider vertical of La Chapelle.

The 1996 Hermitage La Chapelle is immensely impressive. The acidity is high. The color is black/purple, and the wine is extremely concentrated, but unevolved and impossible to penetrate. It could turn out like the 1983 and never develop as well as its early promise suggests. Nevertheless, it is a massive effort with extraordinary concentration, but the high acidity requires a minimum of 10 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.

Jacques Jaboulet believes that 1996 was a better year for this firm than 1995. The renowned Hermitage La Chapelle, is a superb wine in both 1996 and 1995. I have a slight preference for the 1996 Hermitage La Chapelle because it tastes richer, and it is longer. The 1996 needs 10-12 years of cellaring. The color is a dense black/purple, and the wine offers up tight but promising aromas of cassis, pepper, minerals, and soy sauce-like scents. Extremely backward, with immense body, a chewy texture, and mouthsearing levels of acidity and tannin, this should turn out to be an outstanding La Chapelle, but don't think about enjoying a bottle before 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

A really intense nose wafts from the glass: smoky black fruits, truffles and Provencal herbs. Quite bretty as well. The palate has fine concentration, quite backward and lacking the complexity of the nose. A little clumsy and awkward at the moment? Maybe this is just the wrong time for it. I will endeavour to re-taste in 3-4 years time. Tasted November 2003.