The rare 3,000-bottle cuvee of 100% Marsanne, the 2006 Hermitage La Chapelle blanc (the first vintage of this wine made since 1961) is a noble, complex white wine displaying notes of crushed rocks, flowers, quince, white currants, and white peaches. Very full-bodied with superb acidity and freshness, this is a stunning effort. They only make the white La Chapelle in the greatest vintages, and none was made in 2007.

Robert Parker (Wine Advocate #182, Apr 2009)

(100% marsanne; a limited-production item representing a selection of the best lots from Rocoules) Greenish straw. Potent lemon, nectarine, botanical herbs and dried flowers on the nose, with an undercurrent of minerals. Firm and dry, with palate-staining citrus and pit fruit flavors, slow-building minerality and a late wallop of succulent herbs. Strikingly complex wine with note-worthy depth and persistence.

Another impressive white is the 2006 Hermitage la Chapelle Blanc. It too is mature, with full-bodied notes of buttered stone fruits, white currants, honeysuckle and hazelnuts all emerging from the glass. Possessing a touch more richness than the le Chevalier de Sterimberg, it’s drinking beautifully today, yet should keep for a decade (or more).

The rare 3,000-bottle cuvee of 100% Marsanne, the 2006 Hermitage La Chapelle blanc (the first vintage of this wine made since 1961) is a noble, complex white wine displaying notes of crushed rocks, flowers, quince, white currants, and white peaches. Very full-bodied with superb acidity and freshness, this is a stunning effort. They only make the white La Chapelle in the greatest vintages, and none was made in 2007. I have previously documented the decline in quality at this estate following the tragic death of Gerard Jaboulet. That ended in the unexpected sale of Paul Jaboulet-Aine to the Frey family that has done such brilliant work at Bordeaux’s Chateau La Lagune, and are major shareholders in the superb Champagne house of Billecart-Salmon. No doubt they will resurrect the reputation and the quality of the Jaboulet wines, as this was the leading estate in the northern Rhone during the sixties, seventies, and eighties. The Freys have already made some dramatic changes, moving toward eliminating the negociant line of wines, and concentrating exclusively on estate bottled offerings. They own over 120 acres in the northern Rhone as well as 14+ acres in the southern Rhone. The following offerings reflect the recent changes and a work in progress, with the 2006s still under-performing (the Frey family was not in a position to do much in that vintage). The 2007s are clearly better, and I believe that in a few years, when the northern Rhone has its next great vintage, consumers will see a dramatic increase in quality as the new owners have already brought in the world-famous oenologist, Professor Denis Dubourdieu as a consultant. Any readers who have some of the old vintages of Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert in their cellars should be checking them out. The 1978 and 1990 are still brilliant wines, but neither the 2006 or the 2007 will invoke memories of those wines. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Tasted at Liberty’s Annual Jaboulet tasting. Just four barrels of this pure Marsanne produced for the first time since 1961, souced from Terroir des Rocoules is matured for 8 months on their lees in 50% new oak and 50% one-year old It has a subtle, understated bouquet with hints of brioche, lime, dried apricot and a beeswax all with fine definition. The palate is medium-bodied with very well judged acidity, fine balance, understated with a waxy texture and hints of honeycomb on the finish. Elegant and charming. Tasted November 2008.