Replacing La Petite Chapelle in the Jaboulet lineup is the 2015 Hermitage La Maison Bleue. Rather than being a selection of lots that didn’t make the cut for La Chapelle, it’s more terroir-based, with the wine coming from the eastern (non-granitic) side of the appellation. Because of that, it’s softer in style, with a rich, velvety texture. Cedar and spice notes frame cassis and cola notes, lingering through the long, supple finish.

Moving to the two Hermitage releases and from the younger vines, mostly on the eastern side of Hermitage, the 2015 Hermitage La Petite Chapelle is a better wine than a number of older La Chapelle releases; it’s certainly better than the 1998, 1999 and 2001. Full-bodied, ripe, voluptuous and forward, with a sexy feel in its black raspberry, licorice and crushed herbs, it has a wealth of fruit, sweet tannin and a supple, yet lengthy finish. It’s going to offer immense pleasure over the coming two decades.