Inky ruby. Displays lively, spice-tinged black raspberry and cherry aromas, with notes of fresh flowers and minerals adding lift. Seamless and precise on the palate, offering nervy red and dark berry flavors plus hints of licorice and cola. In a lively, elegant style, finishing with strong cut, supple tannins and a lingering note of candied flowers.

Switching to the Northern Rhones, the 2012 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is a promising barrel sample that dishes out ample smoked meat, black currants, cassis, earth and wild herb-like aromas and flavors. Deep, layered and textured, with full-bodied richness and bright acidity, it is a supple, approachable effort to drink over the coming decade or so. Since 2006, owner Caroline Frey has been steadily pushing for increased quality at this historic estate. Moving all of the vineyards to sustainable farming (which takes years to see benefits), both the vineyard and cellar staff have been doubled. In addition, a new gravity operated cellar was set up in 2010. All of this shows, and across the board, the wines have impeccably made, clean and pure profiles. Looking at the individual Northern Rhône appellations, this estate produces four Hermitage (La Chapelle, La Chapelle Blanc, Le Petite Chapelle and Les Chevalier de Stérimberg), four Crozes Hermitage (Domaine de Thalabert, Domaine Mule Blanche, Domaine de Roure and Domaine de Roure Blanc), one Côte Rôtie (Domaine des Pierrelles), one Cornas (Domaine de Saint Pierre), one Saint Joseph (Domaine de la Croix des Vignes) and one Condrieu (Domaine des Grands Amandiers). Looking at 2011, Caroline stated that it was easy to get ripeness, and harvest was early to avoid heat stress on the grapes. Of the three most recent vintages (2011, 2012 and 2013), 2011 had the highest yields, with both 2012 and 2013 seeing a significant drop. I was able to taste a number of these wines twice, once in a larger lineup covering the individual appellations, and again at a tasting at the domaine, with Caroline and oenologist Jacques Desvernois. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Switching to the Northern Rhones, the 2012 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is a promising barrel sample that dishes out ample smoked meat, black currants, cassis, earth and wild herb-like aromas and flavors. Deep, layered and textured, with full-bodied richness and bright acidity, it is a supple, approachable effort to drink over the coming decade or so.
-Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate #210 Dec 2013

Magnum. The most memorable red of the many wines served at the launch of my glassware in New York. Just perfect already with ripeness but the savour of a true Crozes. Aged in small oak apparently but it seemed to have worked in this case. (JR)