(aged for a year in French oak barrels, 20% of them new): Opaque ruby. Fresh dark berries, cherry pit and peppery spices on the pungent nose. Smoky and focused on the palate, offering juicy blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that deepen and unfold slowly with air. The spicy element comes back on a long, youthfully tannic finish that leaves behind notes of cherry pit, licorice and cracked pepper. Give this promising youngster some air if you plan on opening it any time soon.

I was shocked at the quality of the 2013 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, and it just might eclipse the 2012. It’s inky purple color is followed by gorgeous notes of cassis, blackberry and black raspberry, with subtle licorice and crushed-rock-like minerality. Full-bodied, vibrant and pure, the acidity is slightly elevated, yet the depth and purity of fruit is top notch. I suspect this beauty will round into form nicely once in bottle and it should evolve gracefully for 10-12 years.

Available i n a range of bottle sizes. The oak barrels from Château La Lagune in Bordeaux (which is under the same ownership as Jaboulet) are being replaced by larger 500-litre casks, which tend to favour fruit flavours more. Pale crimson. A wine with an amazing history! Good stuff that is drinking well already out of bottle, though note the bigger sizes available, and their prices. Firm and sinewy with real depth. Sophisticated and both cool and arresting. (JR)