The full-bodied, impressively inky 2019 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert features blackberries and cassis, mulberries and blueberries, yet notes of violets, black olives and espresso keep it from being a one-dimensional fruit bomb. Rich, concentrated and dense, it's almost Port-like on the palate. I could see some people thinking it could be too much of a good thing, but maybe this wine just needs more élevage and additional time in the cellar compared to other recent vintages. It is a bit chunky and unformed at this point, but it finishes rich and dusty, with hints of mocha and no real signs of its 15% alcohol.

Saturated ruby. Smoke-accented cherry, blackberry and lavender aromas show excellent clarity and pick up a spicy nuance with air. Plush black and blue fruit, olive and cola flavors show very good breadth and are complicated by an allspice nuance that builds in the glass. Finishes on a youthfully tannic note, with building spiciness and resonating blue fruit and floral notes.