Even more impressive and one of the top four to five wines in the vintage, the 2011 Cote Rotie Cote Brune (which was just bottled prior to my visit) has striking floral, white pepper, stem, game and liquid rock-like aromas and flavors. Seeing 100% whole cluster fermentation, this wild, perfumed and full-bodied rock star has brilliant mid-palate depth, ultra-fine tannin and blockbuster length on the finish. It tastes like the essence of Cote Rotie, and will evolve for 20-25 years or more. Another bastillion of traditional winemaking, Jean-Paul Jamet fashions two Cote Roties from his roughly 17 acres of vines, located mostly on the schist soils in the northern part of the appellation. The winemaking here includes very little destemming, pump overs as opposed to punch downs, and aging in a combination of demi-muid and barrel, with roughly 15% new. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 239-1275

Opaque ruby. Black raspberry, potpourri, licorice and woodsmoke on the highly perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sweet red and dark berry compote flavors enlivened by juicy acidity. Zesty minerality adds lift and bite to the finish, which clings with superb energy and smooth, slow-building tannins.

The Brune ramps up intensity on the nose and structure on the palate compared with the straight Côte Rôtie. Deep and highly refined, it is still on the ascent with blue fruit and fresh black pepper on the nose giving way to a meaty, peppered-steak note on the palate. Very long, very complex, with Jamet’s unique signature woven into every element. Acidity is key to all the Jamet wines, but its freshness here serves to bring such a moreish balance that keeps you coming back for more. Paired with the intoxicating nose, it is perfection. (TP)