What could be one of the wines of the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin, which was harvested October 6-7, has beautiful depth and concentration to go with notes of blackberry, spring flowers, licorice and peppery herbs. Due to the horrible yields for Grenache, production here is down 35%. It should drink nicely on release and have 10-15 years of longevity.

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant, mineral-tinged red berry and floral pastille aromas pick up note of garrigue and incense with air and show excellent clarity. Sappy, incisive and lively on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry, cherry and lavender flavors and a spicy touch of white pepper. The mineral and floral notes echo strongly on the impressively persistent finish, which is framed by silky, harmonious tannins.

Fragrant spice, manages to wear its robes reasonably lightly without diluting the fruit power. This is a more delicately drawn version of Châteauneuf than most, which is blessed relief after tasting the more bruising examples. (RH)