Not as rich or concentrated as I was expecting, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes still delivers ample layers of dark fruit, hints of cola, mint and spice elements. It's full-bodied, silky and long, but it looks to fall short of the quality heights reached by some other recent vintages.

Not terribly dark in the glass, but this has real power and concentration yet no heaviness. It's very well judged, not too much, no over-extraction, just a really classic Châteauneuf imprint that's balanced and charming without being forced or exaggerated. It's young but drinkable already, and will age well too. That's balance for you. From very old vines, fermented in concrete, matured for 12 months in foudres and demi-muids.

Much more powerful and closed, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes comes more from the La Crau and La Janasse lieux-dits and is the usual blend of mostly Grenache with a touch of Syrah. Blackberries, graphite, scorched earth, pepper, and sappy garrigue all emerge on the nose, and it's full-bodied, has beautiful concentration, polished tannins, and a great finish. Nothing is out of place, and this perfectly balanced, authoritative, powerful, and incredibly impressive 2020 will benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age and evolve for 15-20 years in cold cellars.

The 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes reveals enticing aromas of strawberry compote, crème de cassis, licorice, garrigue and hints of peppermint. Full-bodied, elegant and framed by velvety tannins, it is well-balanced by fresh acidity, closing with a long-lasting finish.

65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% others. Meaty aromas with dark-fruit jam, tons of spice, leather, beef jerky, dried herbs, bacon – this is the full package, and showing such good early maturity; there's no need to age this, although it has the gutsiness to mature for years, I expect. (RH)