Tasting Notes and Scores
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 30/10/2008 In 2006, only a handful of other producers in Chateauneuf du Pape hit the heights achieved by Clos St.-Jean with the following wine. The inky/ruby/purple-colored 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina reveals notes of graphite, roasted meats, figs, plums, blackberries, and smoked herbs. The complex aromatic fireworks are followed by a full-bodied, rich, meaty wine with gorgeous purity, depth, and length. This cuvee should age effortlessly for two decades or more. How Vincent Maurel and Philippe Cambie were able to produce such stupendous wines in 2006 is remarkable. Readers should hasten to buy this wine ASAP! What a remarkable group of wines is emerging from proprietor Vincent Maurel, who works with the genius of Southern Rhone viticulture and winemaking, Philippe Cambie. A succession of superb wines began at this estate in 2003, when it finally began to live up to its superb potential (Clos Saint-Jean is one of the largest holders of top vineyards in Chateauneuf du Pape, with 120 acres, including some of the finest sites for old vine Grenache and Mourvedre). This may well be one of the most exciting addresses not only in France, but in the entire wine world. As the following notes testify, the 2006s are even more profound from bottle than they were from foudre and demi-muids. Moreover, 2007 may be the finest vintage at Clos Saint-Jean since 2003. Readers should keep in mind that Maurel and Cambie have aged the old vine Grenache in old foudres and some 600-liter demi-muids, but the Syrah and Mourvedre components are kept in small barrels. In short, these wines are not to be missed! To reiterate, as mind-blowing as the 2007s are, I believe that along with Clos des Papes and a handful of other domaines, Clos St.-Jeanâs 2006s are the wines of the vintage. The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina, a blend of 60% Grenache from nearly 100-year-old vines aged in foudres and 40% Mourvedre aged in small barriques, is simply monumental. The 2003 is closing in on a perfect score, and the 2004 is certainly mid-90 point material. The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina has an inky bluish/black color and a nose of roasted meat, black cherry jam, herbs, smoke, and sweet licorice. The wine is spectacularly concentrated, very soft and voluptuous, which is a characteristic of 2006, and layered and multi-dimensional in the finish. This is certainly one of the vintageâs top wines, but it is hard to tell at this stage whether this or the La Combe des Fous will ultimately be the better wine. It should drink well for 20 years.
Wine Advocate
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