Dark and brooding, the 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina screams from the glass with pronounced tobacco, melted licorice, blackberry liqueur, forest floor, dried lavender and a touch of dark chocolate. Opulent and rich to an almost obscene degree, the ultra-intense 2010 isn’t aimed at those seeking elegance and restraint in a red Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Yet, putting stylistic preferences aside and solely focusing on the quality, the craftsmanship and attention to detail simply cannot be ignored. This is a singular elixir from one of the finest vintages Châteauneuf-du-Pape has ever seen.

NB vintage. ‘You need to put this in the oubliette of a château for at least 10 years’. Almost as dense and black as port. Very sumptuous nose and palate entry but then the bitterness creeps up on you and you realise there’s a whole trunk full of tannins underneath all this fruit! But they are pretty well hidden. (JR)

As good, but in a more powerful, rich style, the 2010 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus-Ex Machina is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre. While the Mourvedre is aged in smaller barrels, the Grenache is aged only in tank. It deliver a thrilling bouquet of kirsch, blackberry liqueur, garrigue, roasted meat, and licorice (among other things) that flows to an exceedingly concentrated, full-bodied 2010 that is brilliantly textured, perfectly proportioned, and incredibly structured and tannic. As with the other wines from this estate, it remains beautifully fresh and focused, while at the same time possessing layers of texture and a decadent, voluptuous style. Certainly, it is a toe curling drink now, yet really needs short to mid-term cellaring and has decades of life ahead of it.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 31/10/2012 A perfect wine (and equal to the profound 2007), the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina was cropped at under 20 hectoliters per hectare. Extremely full-bodied and dense purple-colored, it exhibits notes of blueberries, blackberries, licorice, incense, camphor, vanillin and chocolate-covered espresso beans (no doubt from the new demi-muids in which the Mourvedre component was aged). The tannins are noticeable, but relatively silky. The most muscular and formidable 2010 in this portfolio, its expansiveness, mind-boggling richness and intensity, and 60-second finish are the stuff of legends. Forget this remarkable Chateauneuf du Pape for five years and drink it over the following thirty years. Since 2003, when Pascal and Vincent Maurel took over this estate after their father’s passing, Clos Saint-Jean has gone from strength to strength. They have always owned great vineyards, and they had the foresight to hire a brilliant consulting oenologist, Philippe Cambie. The result has been instant stardom, and a succession of world-class wines. Recently they also partnered with the California Central Coast’s renowned Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non to produce another luxury cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape from mostly Mourvedre called Chimere. A large estate for Chateauneuf du Pape (over 110 acres), Clos Saint-Jean’s history dates back to 1900, with the first Maurel taking control in 1930. The majority of their holdings are in the southeastern sector of the appellation, including significant parcels in La Crau, Les Combes and St.-Jean. In top vintages, Clos Saint-Jean produces five cuvees of red Chateauneuf du Pape, and the 2011s are successful across the board. There will not be a Sanctus Sanctorum in this vintage. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565 and Paul M. Young, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (323) 222-2003