Next up—and one of the wines of the vintage—the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous checks in as a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% each of Cinsault and Vaccarèse. It was completely destemmed and the Grenache was raised all in concrete, with the balance raised in larger barrels. This sensational wine offers flat out awesome notes of smoked meats, graphite, spice box and licorice, as well as full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannin and a silky, seamless, sexy profile that keeps you coming back to the glass. While the Deux Ex Machina is a bigger, richer wine, this has more elegance and polish. Drink this beauty anytime over the coming decade.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (a blend of 60% Grenache from vines planted in 1905 all aged in neutral wood foudres, 20% Syrah aged in small oak casks, and the balance equal proportions Cinsault and Vaccarese aged in large foudres) has been one of the great Chateauneuf du Papes since it was introduced in 2003. The 2006 reminds me of an extraordinary vintage of Comte de Vogue’s Musigny. With unbelievable minerality, a provocative perfume of spring flowers, and a dense ruby/purple color, this sweet, broad-flavored, massive wine exhibits sexy tannin and beautiful opulence. Blueberry, blackberry and kirsch intermix with floral elements and crushed rocks. Quite full-bodied, opulent, with light to moderate tannins, this wine will be drinkable early on (2-3 years), and keep for two decades.

(60% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault and 10% vaccarese) Inky ruby. Exotically perfumed bouquet of cherry-cola, licorice, incense and cracked pepper. Sappy and round, with deep dark berry and sassafras flavors, gently chewy tannins and a late kick of black pepper. Finishes with mounting sweetness, exceptional clarity and lingering spiciness.