Tasting Notes and Scores
About as elegant and seamless as Châteauneuf-du-Pape gets, the brilliant 2009 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous is a blend of 60% old vine Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, and 10% Vaccarese. While the Grenache is aged entirely in tank, the Syrah is aged in demi-muids. Sporting massive aromatics of incense, meat juice, flowers, spice, and loads of licorice-drenched red fruits that literally leap from the glass, the wine is full-bodied and simply perfectly put together. Seamless, very rich, and yet not heavy or cumbersome in the least, this firms up beautifully on the finish and highlights very fine, polished tannin. Quite possibly the wine of the vintage, this is heavenly stuff that should age effortlessly for two decades.
Jeb Dunnuck
Jeb Dunnuck
2011-09-25
Robert Parker''s Wine Advocate 31/10/2011
More restrained as well as less intense and powerful, the dense purple-hued 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous offers elegant kirsch notes. While it is not quite up to the level of the 2005, 2007 or 2010, it is a rich, well proportioned effort offering notes of pen ink, raspberries, blueberries, sweet cherries and spring flowers. Full-bodied as well as polished and focused (especially for a 2009), it should drink nicely for 15-20 years.
If a prize were given to the Rhone Valley estate that had improved the most in the shortest period of time, it would undoubtedly go to that of Pascal and Vincent Maurel, who took over Clos Saint-Jean after their father passed away in 2002. Since then, they have made a succession of world-class wines that are out of this world. One of the largest estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, Clos Saint-Jean has an amazing number of old vine parcels in its 112+ acres (significant holdings in La Crau, in the eastern part of the appellation). No doubt the hiring of renowned oenologist Philippe Cambie has also increased the quality of these offerings. The 2010 Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Papes are phenomenal wines. The Maurel brothers believe they are as profound as the 2007s, and it is hard to disagree. Production is down considerably because of the loss of 25-30% of the Grenache crop due to poor flowering, but the levels of concentration, freshness and focus of these wines are remarkable. Moreover, the 2009s from bottle performed at the upper end of the ranges I had given them last year – always a sign of a terrific winery dedicated to high quality.
The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (which essentially translates into the “swale of fools”) is produced from 13 hectares of vines situated primarily in La Crau. It is an interesting blend of 60% Grenache, as much as 15-20% Vaccarese, lots of Cinsault and some Syrah. Tasting the 2009 made me think it is more in the style of the virtually perfect 2005 than the other perfect cuvee, the 2007, which is a bolder, more flamboyant, fleshier, exuberant style of wine. The inky/purple-colored 2009 reveals glorious aromas of spring flowers, raspberries, blackberries, white chocolate, truffles and garrigue. The extraordinary perfume is followed by a sensationally concentrated, full-bodied wine with magnificent texture, structure, purity and equilibrium. It is another brilliant wine that should drink well for 20+ years. Drink: 2010 - 2030
-Robert Parker, Wine Advocate #191 Oct 2010 (95-97)
Wine Advocate
Full ruby. An exotic, highly perfumed bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, star anise and a whiff of Grand Marnier. Juicy, palate-coating raspberry and boysenberry flavors show a felicitous blend of power and vivacity, with no rough edges and slow-building spiciness. Closes on a sweet note, with lingering anise and floral notes.
Josh Raynolds
Vinous
2012-01-01
Rhone
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