Another blockbuster, and probably the greatest wine in the lineup drinking at point, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a full-bodied, hedonistic and decadent powerhouse that offers incredible notes of garrigue, cured meats, chocolate, dried spice and layers of ripe red and black fruits. It opens up beautifully with time in the glass, has no hard edges, a silky, seamless texture and a finish that just won't quit. Bravo!

I have had some issues with corked bottles, but the only bottle opened for this tasting was spectacular. Still rather deep bluish/purple in color, with an extraordinary nose of spring flowers, melted licorice, truffles, blueberries, and blackberry liqueur, it is jammy, thick, and unctuously textured, but exhibiting tremendous freshness and vibrancy for a wine this massive and powerful. This is an extraordinary wine without any hard edges. It seems to be close to full maturity, yet capable of staying there for up to two more decades when well-stored. This is a beauty.

The port-like, opaque purple-colored, massive 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes symbolizes the essence of wine. It is a colossal effort, with massive concentration, the element of sur-maturite found in many 1998s, extraordinary density, and multiple layers of flavor and intensity. The bouquet reveals scents of cassis, black raspberry jam, licorice, and spice. This unctuously-textured wine could serve as an aphrodisiac given its compelling, voluptuous personality. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

Deep red. Flamboyant aromas of cherry and raspberry jam and dark chocolate; distinctly roasted yet lively. Huge, chewy and dense; superripe, incredibly concentrated grenache with the texture of a solid. The near-16% alcohol is almost magically buffered by the wine extraordinary fruit. Finishes with big, sweet, chewy tannins and great expanding length. This displays the exotic dried fruit aspect of the ripest examples from 1990. A monument of the 1998 vintage.