Vivid magenta. Seductive raspberry liqueur, exotic spice, potpourri and incense aromas, along with hints of musky rhubarb and smoky minerals. Juicy, seamless and energetic in style, offering densely packed red fruit, cherry cola, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that show superb delineation and spread out steadily as the wine opens up. Fine-grained, even tannins lend shape to a strikingly persistent, penetrating finish that shows intense red-fruit- and spice-driven tenacity. This wine is a standout of the vintage.

From vines planted in 1900, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes leads with aromas of cola, raspberries and dried spices. There's none of the chocolaty excess seen in the regular cuvée, but this full-bodied wine reflects the heat of the year in its slightly coarser than usual tannins. It's full-bodied without being heavy or overdone, just chewier than normal, and likely to age a bit quickly.

Tasted blind. Jammy blackberry fruit, heady spice and simple milk chocolate notes to finish. Attractive, supple tannins. Quite limited complexity, but there's lingering fruit enough to recommend modest ageing. (RH)