The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Cuvee du Papet may will turn out to be their finest example since the 1998 and 1990. Stylistically, it probably comes closest to resembling the legendary 1990. Notes of roasted meats and smoked duck, with Provencal herbs, truffle, incense, licorice, and pepper, are all there, plus enormous quantities of red and black fruits. This is one heck of a complex wine, with a bouquet that is the essence of southern France, in particular Provence. Full-bodied, powerful, with the glycerin and level of richness covering some lofty tannins, this wine is already accessible and nearly impossible to resist, but my instincts suggest it will be absolutely glorious in another 4-5 years and keep for 15-20.

(vinified with 50% whole clusters) Bright ruby. Exotic, seductively perfumed bouquet of raspberry, mulberry, incense, dried flowers and spicecake. Lush, chewy dark fruit flavors envelop the palate, with juicy acidity adding definition and back-end cut. At once rich and energetic, finishing with excellent thrust and lingering spiciness. Sabon said that he prefers this to his 2005 version now and for the near to mid term. "The '05 needs to be forgotten for a long, long time," he told me.

Fresh and lively. Very sweet but with a refreshing streak of something vaguely mineral too. Well balanced despite the high alcohol. Well done. (JR)