While I have some concerns with the tannin in the classic cuvee, I’ve no such reservations with the 2005 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard and it’s a gorgeous wine that’s still young and vibrant. Cassis, licorice, sweet oak, menthol and spice and all emerge here, and it’s full-bodied, big-boned and structured, with a balancing amount of fruit and texture. Give this beauty another year or three and enjoy bottles through 2030.

Mostly Grenache in a blend containing all 13 varieties allowed in Châteauneuf, from very old vines (60-110 years). Lieux-dits: Boisrenard, Cabrières, Coteaux de L'ange and La Nerthe. Destemmed, indigenous yeasts, 18 months in French oak barrels (20% new). 10,000 bottles produced. pH 3.6 , RS 1.7 g/l. Harvested end September. Blackish ruby. Thick, sweet and dense but without much refreshment factor. Pretty heavy with still-marked tannins. But lots to get your teeth into. Still a bit severe but promising and with good structure. Attractive, cool, unexaggerated finish. (JR)