1998 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee Reservee Rouge

A classic version of this cuvee that's drinking at full maturity, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee offers lots of bouquet garni, cured meats, orange blossom and garrigue to go with a killer core of sweet kirsch and blackberry-driven Grenache fruit. Balanced, full-bodied, seamless and sexy, it's doesn't get much more Pegau than this. Drink it anytime over the coming 5+ years.

The 1998 Cuvee Reservee is an old-style, full-bodied effort, revealing notes of roasted meats, beef blood, herbes de Provence, kirsch, sandalwood, and spice. Rich, full-bodied, moderately tannic, super-pure & dense, this gorgeous offering is the finest Cuvee Reservee produced since the 1990. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.

Full ruby-red. Aromas of roasted plum, cherry and raspberry, with a distinct animal aspect. Deep, rich and complete; lush but with sound supporting acidity. Complex mineral and chocolate notes complement the wine's superripe fruit flavors. Very long, subtle finish features thoroughly ripe tannins. Laurence says the pH here is a relatively low 3.4. #2, not yet racked: Liqueur-like jammy sweetness on the nose. Extremely glyceral palate impression; sauvage hint of smoked meat. Finishes very long, with completely ripe tannins. #3, from a foudre in the back corner of the cellar, where there's less air movement; includes La Crau plus Montpertuis: Saturated ruby. Completely primary wine; makes #1 seem ready to drink. Black cherry liqueur on the nose. Thick but with powerful underlying backbone. Medicinal black cherry and licorice notes. Finishes with huge, toothcoating tannins. The licorice note comes from the mourvedre planted on iron-rich soil in Montpertuis, says Laurence. Making early assessments of this estate's wines can be a tricky exercise, as the numerous foudres that go into the ultimate blend range widely in style and quality, but 1998 appears to be an outstanding wine in the making. (Laurence says it reminds her of the domain's 1985).

Very dark, dramatic ruby. A bit of decay on the nose. Sweet then horribly tannic. I really can’t imagine this wine ever coming round and the fruit being allowed to rise above the impenetrable parapet of aggressive tannins. (JR)