Lastly, and tasted from bottle, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Réservée showed brilliantly, with the beautiful, Provençal character of the vintage as well as classic Pegau notes of red and black currants, smoked herbs, cured meats, new leather, and ground pepper all front and center. More in the style of the 1999 or 2005 than say the 2007 or 2009, it’s medium to full-bodied, has beautiful concentration, ample structure and tannins, and a focused, backward mouthfeel that’s going to benefit from bottle age. This beauty will evolve for 30 years or more.

Pegau's distinctive violet and garrigue aromas are on full display in the 2017 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, backed by plummy fruit and velvety tannins. It's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and rich, with ample length and hints of mocha and licorice on the finish. Not as sexy out of the gate as some vintages, I'd give it another year or two in the cellar, then drink it over the next decade or so.

Deep shimmering ruby. A highly perfumed nose displays scents of ripe red and dark berries, candied lavender, licorice, smoked meat and white pepper, and a building mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and deeply concentrated yet lively as well, offering alluringly sweet cherry, black raspberry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that spread out and become livelier with aeration. Closes youthfully chewy, sweet and extremely long, with slow-building tannins adding shape and solid grip. There's no Cuvée Da Capo in 2017, incidentally.

60% Clairette, 20% Grenache Blanc, 10% Bourboulenc, 10% Roussanne. Tasted blind. Citrus peel with a touch of medicinal character on the nose. Powerful palate, and the touch of medicinal character adds intrigue. (RH)