As impressive as the Cuvée Réservée is, the 2016 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée da Capo brings an extra level of intensity. Turn that volume up to 11 or even 12. Waves of black cherries, plums and chocolate wash across the full-bodied, velvety palate, lingering nearly forever on the finish. As big and bold as it is, it remains breathtakingly elegant and fine. It should evolve gracefully through at least 2040.

All 13 varieties have been used from lieux-dits La Crau, Les Escondudes and Mont Pertuis, with no destemming. There's some complexity and interest on the nose already, with aromas of violets, blueberries, raspberries and a touch of tobacco leaf. The wine is medium to full-bodied, but without any heaviness, with sublime freshness and piercing acidity. This has real life, and a lightness of touch which delivers real drinkability. Very fine, abundant ripe tannins work like a lattice through the fruit. The fairly raised levels of alcohol don't give a sense of imbalance in the wine, and it finishes on a lifted note. The best Da Capo in a long time. Real elegance.

Opaque bright-rimmed ruby. Potent red fruit liqueur, incense and Moroccan spice aromas on the highly perfumed nose; a smoky mineral element provides lift. Sweet, concentrated and energetic in the mouth, offering intense raspberry liqueur and cherry cola flavors that pick up a smoky nuance with air. The penetrating, floral-dominated finish shows outstanding clarity and thrust, and harmonious tannins add framework and grip.

70% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre, 2% Cinsault, 2% Terret, 2% Picardan, 2% Muscardin, 2% Bourboulenc, 2% Piquepoul, 2% Vaccarèse, 2% Roussanne, 2% Counoise, 2% Clairette. Cask sample. Much better freshness than their Réservé, and full of succulent red fruit with fine, filigree tannic powder. Moderate length, a little spiciness on the finish leaving a fairly simple persistence. (RH)

I was also able to taste the 2016 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Da Capo, which comes mostly from older vines in the La Crau lieu-dit and spends an additional year in a large foudre. The 2016 vintage was truly magical for the region, and this Cuvée Da Capo is unquestionably one of the finest vintages for this cuvée ever made, in the same league as, if not surpassing, the 1998, 2003, 2007, and 2010. Sensational notes of cured meats, crème de cassis, crushed violets, ground pepper, tapenade, truffle, and sweet herbes de Provence all soar from the glass and it hits the palate with a massive, full-bodied style that stays seamless, weightless, and as pure as they come. Traditional, classic Châteauneuf Du Pape doesn’t get better. I hate to be the guy who throws out the “best to date” line very often, but this is truly magical stuff.