Visually it's starting to show its age now, a touch of brown to the crimson. Some polished wood notes, it has the intriguing worn smell of an antique shop. There's a little volatile acidity lift, the aromas show a balsamic vein, almost a slightly madeirised tang. On the palate there's more: coffee bean, vanilla fudge, Lapsang Souchong tea and stewed plum. Generous on the palate still, with appealing sucrosity and great length. This will be as old as some wine lovers would want it to be, but it won't fall apart any time soon. Still some tannin and fruit, but it's fading now. A stately old wine, and a very correct one.

Rhȏne lovers were out in full force on this night. Sadly, I only got to taste a handful of the wines being passed around. Still, these were four of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Where to start? Beaucastel’s Hommage a Jacques Perrin is one of my very favorite wines. The 1989 was absolutely singing, with seemingly endless layers of silky-textured fruit.

Very sweet and rich with notes of liquorice. Pure pleasure and with tannins long since dissipated. Note the relatively modest alcohol level. (JR)

eRobertParker.com January, 2003 The less evolved 1989 boasts an even inkier purple color than the 1990. The most massive, biggest, concentrated, and structured of any of the Jacques Perrins, but it is still 5-10 years away from full maturity. It has great intensity and is extraordinary to taste, but it is not a lot of fun to drink ... if you know what I mean. In any event, this is a potentially perfect wine. The only question is, when will it hit its plateau of maturity? My guess is around 2010.