The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is a blend of 60% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, 10% Counoise, and 10% Syrah, the standard blend for this cuvee except for the 1998, which had 60% Grenache and only 20% Mourvedre. The 2000 possesses an impenetrable black/purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of melted licorice, creosote, new saddle leather, blackberry and cherry fruit as well as roasted meats. Sweet and full-bodied, with great intensity, huge power, and a finish that lasts for 67 seconds by my watch, this is an amazing tour de force in winemaking. Even in a flattering, forward-styled vintage such as 2000, it will need 7-8 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.

(the blend, based on 60% mourvedre, was to have been bottled a week after my visit) Saturated bright deep ruby. Incredible kaleidoscope of a nose: blackberry, currant, violet, espresso, bitter chocolate, truffle, eucalyptus, gibier, licorice, pepper and wild spices. Similarly multifaceted in the mouth; hugely concentrated and lush but lively and light on its feet. This boasts an extraordinary core of dark fruit. Finishes extremely long, juicy and young. This is even stronger than it appeared to be a year ago. In comparison to this wine, the 1999 version, which I retasted alongside the 2000, was a bit more port-like, with strong notes of fruit cake and maple syrup and a superripe, chocolatey finish; I rated the wine 96 but felt that the 2000 showed even greater long-term potential.

We shimmied over to the Southern Rhône for the exquisite 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacque Perrin from Château de Beaucastel. Now at 23-years-of-age, it has a disarming nose of blackberry and redcurrants, just a touch of Band-Aid, courtesy of the 60% Mourvèdre, and a scintilla of Tuscan deli, one with sawdust sprinkled over the floor. The palate is medium-bodied with white pepper and clove, still quite youthful and nicely structured. With a brush of Provençal herbs towards the finish, I admire how this Beaucastel exudes typicité. It will continue evolving and repay cellaring over the next couple of decades.

Bloody on the nose, fresh meat and iron. Mature now, with some earthy notes among the autumnal fruits underpinned by a distinctly spicy aromatic vein. Only medium-bodied, ready to drink now, in fact it's time to drink up - it's unlikely to improve. Sappy acidity and a touch of polished wood on the finish. Tannins are a little lacking in finesse, but there's good complexity and a regal touch - ageing royalty.

Gorgeously ripe red fruit, plus earth, milk chocolate, soft tannin, forest floor and a touch of boot polish that is probably related to something acetic but works really well in the mix of flavours. Long, impressive, expansive finish. Multi-layered and loaded with flavour. Very Rhône. Indefatigable! (RH)