Inky ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes fresh, mineral-accented black and blue fruits, star anise and violet, backed by a hint of olive. Juicy, palate-staining dark berry flavors are complemented by suave floral pastille and spicecake qualities that build steadily with air. Closes with superb clarity and gentle tannic grip, leaving lively floral and blueberry notes behind.

The 2017 Saint Joseph offers up effusive notes of mint, black olives and black cherries. As usual, the Gonons have managed to combine herbal, savory and fruity elements into a compelling, harmonious whole. The wine is medium to full-bodied and fully ripe, perhaps not quite as lush and fruit-driven as the 2018, but it's still a tremendous success, capped off by gentle tannins and salted licorice on the long finish.

Peppery black fruit, dried herbs, dark chocolate. Ultra-fine tannins. Meaty finish with excellent beefy substance. (RH)