Deep magenta. Displays expansive aromas of black raspberry, cherry liqueur, candied flowers and olive, along with exotic spice and smoky mineral nuances. Weighty as well as energetic in style, offering sappy, mineral-drenched black and blue fruit preserves, floral pastille flavors and hints of star anise and allspice. Finishes juicy, lively and wonderfully long, with resonating spice and floral notes and youthfully gripping tannins.

The refined 2020 Saint-Joseph hits the palate with great concentration and a juicy core of red fruits. Pencil shavings, crushed violets and cedar add more layers. Maintaining spot-on balance and neatly framed by polished tannins, the 2020 Saint-Joseph is classic Gonon. It is less ripe and flamboyant than the 2018 or 2019, but offers more substance than the 2021, concludes with lifting energy on the savory finish.

Still in barrels at the time of my visit, Jean Gonon blended a representative sample for me to review. The 2020 Saint Joseph is classic Gonon, with a complex nose of crushed stone, violets, cherries and blueberries; a palate that's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and tannic yet silky; and a finish that's vibrant and long.

80% Marsanne, 20% Roussanne. Tank sample tasted at the domaine. Attractive nose with marmalade and confit fruit notes. Rich and concentrated on the palate with a minerally freshness that affords balance. (JL)