Showing more finesse and elegance than the Pignan, yet still with plenty of density and concentration, the 2010 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is a sensational effort from this estate that has a kaleidoscope-like array of framboise, darker cherries, sappy flowers, garrigue, and spice. Opening up beautifully with time in the glass as well, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, silky tannins, and a great finish. Reminding me slightly of the 1990, it is heavenly today and will be heavenly in another 15+ years as well.

Vivid ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, licorice and smoky minerals. Broad and fleshy, offering deeply concentrated black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a strong note of floral pastilles. Chewy tannins give grip to a powerful, alluringly sweet, endless finish. Shows as much density as I can recall from a young Rayas and is clearly built for the long haul.

The three component parts of the 2010 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape show it to be a deeply colored vintage with terrific fruit intensity of licorice, raspberries and sweet, jammy cherries. Medium to full-bodied and ripe with 15+% natural alcohol and sweet, soft tannins, this ethereal 2010 is reminiscent of the 2005 although the tannins in the 2010 are more silky. (Not yet released) One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

I tasted three different ingredients from Rayas's trademark ancient foudres. According to Emmanuel Reynaud, the three orientations are very complementary. Coeur de Rayas - From 25- to 60-year-old vines, this is very aromatic, almost pine-flavoured. Great freshness and minerality. Shot through with sinews and muscles – very much made for the long term, even though the fruit should allow the drinker to approach it in less than 10 years. Coucher de Soleil de Rayas – West-facing vines. Again a bit reduced but with lots of finesse, fine tannins and density here. Strong, assertive personality grabs your attention. Levant de Soleil de Rayas – East-facing vines. The least tough of these three, a bit reduced. Very rich and round. Vibrant and glowing. Very Grenache. (JR)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve knocks it out of the park with rosewater, kirsch, garrigue , tobacco, white pepper, melted licorice and a flicker of ivy. On the full-bodied palate, rich flavor concentration is masterfully balanced by vibrant freshness, resulting in a sensation of complete harmony. What’s so striking about this Rayas is how it lays bare all its strength without flexing a single muscle. The detailed, finesse-driven finish lingers for over two minutes, confirming the 2010 as one of the finest vintages ever produced here. This particular bottle was opened four hours in advance, without decanting. For those eager to experience this unique Rayas ahead of my suggested drinking window, I strongly recommend this approach, as decanting may cause it to close down. For readers disciplined enough to wait a few more years, the magic starts in 2030.