Mature in feel, with sweetened butter, green almond and melon notes allied to a paraffinlike texture, but there's also plenty of bright underlying acidity. Creamy and broad through the finish, with the waxy feel allowing a sweet butter note to echo on. A lovely example of the traditional style. Drink now through 2012. 480 cases made.

The 2005 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape blanc is a beauty. It is full-bodied with great acidity and richness. The 2005s at this renowned estate, both the Cotes du Rhones from the Fonselette estate and the Chateauneuf du Papes, are cool-climate style wines with some austerity but admirable delicacy and lightness. I didn’t think they were among the vintage’s strongest efforts, but they are certainly very much in keeping with the style of past Jacques Reynaud wines. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 2005 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape blanc is a beauty. It is full-bodied with great acidity and richness.